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	<title>Ithacork &#187; $25-35</title>
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	<description>Wine and Science in the Finger Lakes</description>
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		<title>Wine Blogging Wednesday 62: A grape by any other name&#8230;</title>
		<link>http://ithacork.com/2009/10/16/channing-daughters-blaufrankisch-vs-keuka-spring-lemberger/</link>
		<comments>http://ithacork.com/2009/10/16/channing-daughters-blaufrankisch-vs-keuka-spring-lemberger/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Oct 2009 05:17:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Tom Mansell</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Tasting Notes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[$15-20]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[$25-35]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[finger lakes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[keuka lake]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lemberger]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[long island]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[the hamptons]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Wine Blogging Wednesday]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://ithacork.wordpress.com/?p=1275</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This month, for Wine Blogging Wednesday, Boston wine bigwig Dale Cruse selected a very clever theme. The idea: drink wines called by their lesser-known synonyms. For example, if you like Zinfandel, have a Primitivo. This exercise is also interesting because regional names tend to denote regional winemaking styles. (Think about Syrah vs. Shiraz!) In this case, since it is Regional Wine Week (and since I forgot to stop at the wine store on the way home), I decided to hit on what has become a bit of a touchy issue in the New York wine community. Blaufränkisch or Lemberger? Same grape, two goofy names, and strong opinions about said names. (Note: these wines were tasted together, blind, in identical ISO 9000 glasses) Channing Daughters Blaufränkisch 2007 Appellation: The Hamptons, Long Island, NY Grape: 75% Blaufränkisch (or whatever you want to call it), 25% Merlot ABV: 12.5% Price Point: $25 Closure: Natural cork Technical Notes: from the website: Estate-grown in the Hamptons. &#8220;&#8230;[A]ll the fruit was hand-picked, de-stemmed, crushed by foot and punched down by hand. The wine was handled minimally and bottled by gravity.&#8221; 12 months in older oak barrels. Hedonic Notes: Brilliant bluish-purple color. Smells like purple, and according [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/10/wbw.jpg?w=99" alt="wbw" title="wbw" width="99" height="150" class="alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-1300" /></p>
<p>This month, for Wine Blogging Wednesday, Boston wine bigwig <a href="http://drinksareonme.net">Dale Cruse</a> selected a very clever theme.  The idea:  drink wines called by their lesser-known synonyms.  For example, if you like Zinfandel, have a Primitivo.  This exercise is also interesting because regional names tend to denote regional winemaking styles.  (Think about Syrah vs. Shiraz!)</p>
<p>In this case, since it is <a href="http://palatepress.com/2009/10/regional-wine-week-is-back/">Regional Wine Week</a> (and since I forgot to stop at the wine store on the way home), I decided to hit on what has become a bit of a touchy issue in the New York wine community.<br />
<strong><br />
Blaufränkisch or Lemberger?</strong>  Same grape, two goofy names, and strong opinions about said names.</p>
<p><em>(Note: these wines were tasted together, blind, in identical ISO 9000 glasses)</em></p>
<p><strong>Channing Daughters Blaufränkisch 2007</strong><br />
<strong>Appellation:</strong> The Hamptons, Long Island, NY<br />
<strong>Grape:</strong> 75% Blaufränkisch (or whatever you want to call it), 25% Merlot<br />
<strong>ABV:</strong> 12.5%<br />
<strong>Price Point</strong>: $25<br />
<strong>Closure</strong>: Natural cork</p>
<p><strong>Technical Notes:</strong> <a href="https://www.channingdaughters.com/store/index.php">from the website</a>: Estate-grown in the Hamptons.  &#8220;&#8230;[A]ll the fruit was hand-picked, de-stemmed, crushed by foot and punched down by hand. The wine was handled minimally and bottled by gravity.&#8221;  12 months in older oak barrels.</p>
<p><strong>Hedonic Notes:</strong> Brilliant bluish-purple color.  Smells like purple, and according to Homer Simpson, purple&#8217;s a fruit. Kind of a black raspberry thing.  A little H2S at first, but that blows off quickly.  An herbal component is thrown in for good measure.  The acid backbone shines through, all the way to the medium-length finish.  It might be a tad too acidic for me.  The <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/winespeak/#astringency">{astringency}</a> that comes in at the end seems a bit late and not really necessary.  A little woody/cardboard as well on the finish.  This wine has its really good moments, particularly after swishing around for a little while, but it&#8217;s far from perfect.</p>
<p><strong>Rating</strong>: <img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/cork.gif" alt="cork" title="cork" width="20" height="20" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" /><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/cork.gif" alt="cork" title="cork" width="20" height="20" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" /><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/cork.gif" alt="cork" title="cork" width="20" height="20" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" /><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/nocork.gif" alt="nocork" title="nocork" width="20" height="20" /><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/nocork.gif" alt="nocork" title="nocork" width="20" height="20" /> 3 out of 5 <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/ratings/">corks </a></p>
<p>I&#8217;ve written about a Channing Daughters wine before, the <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/2009/04/09/give-me-some-skin/">Meditazione</a>.  This winery is doing some really innovative things on Long Island, and I&#8217;m all about more people growing this grape.  I wish more Channing Daughters wines were available up here, as I&#8217;ve found interesting characteristics in almost all of the wines that I&#8217;ve tasted from there.</p>
<p><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/10/img_16081.jpg" alt="IMG_1608" title="IMG_1608" width="470" height="459" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1288" /></p>
<p><strong>Keuka Spring Lemberger 2007</strong><br />
<strong>Appellation:</strong> Finger Lakes<br />
<strong>Grape:</strong> 100% Lemberger (or whatever you want to call it)<br />
<strong>ABV:</strong> 13%<br />
<strong>Price Point</strong>: $19<br />
<strong>Closure</strong>: Natural cork</p>
<p><strong>Technical Notes: </strong>Estate-grown, harvested at 21 Brix (pretty ripe). Whole berry fermentation, cold soak before and extended maceration after fermentation (for color and tannin extraction), mix of older and new French oak.<br />
<strong>Hedonic Notes:</strong> Wow.  Big, pure fruit up front.  There is distinct citrus which brings to mind a sort of mixed berry marmalade.  Beyond the fruit is a toasty and vanilla oak component which I rather like.  It is integrated very well.  Acid is present but subdued in the mouth by substantial alcohol, which also contributes to a nice, full-bodied <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/winespeak/#mouthfeel">{mouthfeel}</a> without running <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/winespeak/#hot">{hot}</a>.  The mid-palate is a fruity blast of cherry.  It just keeps on giving into a long, slightly earthy finish.  Lovely.  Good to the last glass.</p>
<p><strong>Rating</strong>: <img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/cork.gif" alt="cork" title="cork" width="20" height="20" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" /><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/cork.gif" alt="cork" title="cork" width="20" height="20" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" /><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/cork.gif" alt="cork" title="cork" width="20" height="20" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" /><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/cork.gif" alt="cork" title="cork" width="20" height="20" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" /><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/nocork.gif" alt="nocork" title="nocork" width="20" height="20" /> 4 out of 5 <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/ratings/">corks </a> for a wonderful effort from Keuka Springs, who continues to surprise me with great offerings.</p>
<p>Honestly, when I tasted these two, I thought that this one was the Long Island.  Not because it was better, but because of the noticeable oak.  It was a mistake, though, since Channing Daughters isn&#8217;t your typical Long Island winery and they make very judicious use of oak.  Shows what stereotypes can do.  When I found out that this one was the Finger Lakes Lemberger, I was very pleased.</p>
<p><strong>A note about names:</strong>  Lots of people seem to prefer the name Blaufränkisch and I&#8217;m not sure exactly why.  <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/2009/04/14/lemberger-time/">I talked about this a little bit before</a>, but I&#8217;m convinced it must be the ümlaut.  The name itself has become a cause célèbre to some naïve people who feel as fancy as a maître d&#8217; when they are able to coördinate their sentences to put a smörgåsbord of diacritical marks on words like açaí, El Niño, and crème fraîche.  They say that Lemberger reminds people of Limberger and thus stinky cheese. I say whatever helps people remember the name of the wine is fine by me.  Blaufränkisch just seems a tad too Teutonic to be memorable to the average consumer.  Lemberger is like hamburger! In fact, I would love this wine with a hamburger.  Or even a frankfurter.  Not that it really matters, but for the record, I am in the Lemberger camp.</p>
<p>Thanks to Dale for hosting a thoughtful and thought-provoking <a href="http://drinksareonme.net/2009/10/15/wine-blogging-wednesday-62-a-grape-by-any-other-name/">WBW</a>.</p>
<p><strong>Science!</strong></p>
<div id="attachment_1297" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 294px"><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/10/photo-17.jpg" alt="Who says the Finger Lakes can&#39;t make bold, dark reds?" title="Photo 17" width="284" height="480" class="size-full wp-image-1297" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Who says the Finger Lakes can't make bold, dark reds?</p></div>
<p>The Lemberger was cold soaked and given extended maceration for maximum extraction of color and tannin.  Cold soaking, leaving the grapes in cold storage for a day or two after harvesting and usually adding dry ice, can have several purposes, including weakening the cellular structure of the skins to promote the release of color compounds.  I sort of <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/2009/07/03/strawblog-day-1/">did this with my strawberry wine,</a> but only because I forgot to buy yeast that day. You&#8217;ve got to be careful with extended maceration, though, especially if your fruit isn&#8217;t ripe.  In this case, the Lemberger seemed to be pretty ripe.  Overly long macerations, I&#8217;ve found, can lead to a spicy aroma that is not unlike potpourri.  I have detected this aroma in many Finger Lakes reds, and I think that some tend to overextract in hopes of gaining the most possible color in a region that sometimes has trouble adequately ripening reds.   This is one reason I think Lemberger has such a bright future in this region.  It ripens well in the cool climate and provides stunning purple color.  In my winemaking class last year, one group&#8217;s project was a thermovinified (must heated at 65C for a bit before fermentation) Lemberger, and the result was <em>extremely</em> purple.</p>
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		<title>Monday matchup:  Cabernet Franc/Noiret blends</title>
		<link>http://ithacork.com/2009/10/13/fulkerson-burntray-2007-vs-stoutridge-cabernet-franc-noiret-2007/</link>
		<comments>http://ithacork.com/2009/10/13/fulkerson-burntray-2007-vs-stoutridge-cabernet-franc-noiret-2007/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 13 Oct 2009 07:30:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Tom Mansell</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Tasting Notes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[$10-15]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[$25-35]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[0.5 corks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[3 corks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cabernet franc]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[finger lakes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hudson valley]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[noiret]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[oxidized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[seneca lake]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wine faults]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://ithacork.wordpress.com/?p=1228</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I haven&#8217;t reviewed a wine in a while, so here are two! It&#8217;s not every day you see a comparison of blends of Cabernet Franc and Noiret, a relatively new hybrid grape developed by Cornell. But this isn&#8217;t really your everyday wine blog. Note: I tasted these two wines together, blind, in identical ISO 9000 glasses. I did this partially because I received the Stoutridge as a sample from the Hudson Valley Wine Goddess. For more details about samples, see the sample policy. Fulkerson Winery Burntray 2007 Appellation: Finger Lakes Grape: 50% Cabernet Franc, 50% Noiret ABV: 12% Price Point: $12 Closure: Red molded synthetic cork Technical Notes: 9 months in French and American oak. Hedonic Notes: PEPPER! You are the hot dog guy in BurgerTime and this wine is Peter Pepper. Black pepper but also zingy white pepper are right up front on the nose. There is an interesting floral component, too. On the palate is a structured acidity, with some dark fruit and oak around but not so well integrated. A bit of {astringency} on the gums. It&#8217;s a little bit thin for me, but if it had a bit more {mouthfeel} I would really like it. Rating: [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I haven&#8217;t reviewed a wine in a while, so here are two!  It&#8217;s not every day you see a comparison of blends of Cabernet Franc and Noiret, a relatively new hybrid grape developed by Cornell.  But this isn&#8217;t really your everyday wine blog.</p>
<p><em>Note: I tasted these two wines together, blind, in identical ISO 9000 glasses.  I did this partially because I received the Stoutridge as a sample from the <a href="http://hvwinegoddess.blogspot.com">Hudson Valley Wine Goddess</a>.  For more details about samples, see the <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/sample-policy/">sample policy.</a></em></p>
<p><strong>Fulkerson Winery Burntray 2007</strong></p>
<p><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/10/picture-15.png?w=243" alt="Picture 15" title="Picture 15" width="243" height="300" class="alignright size-medium wp-image-1263" /></p>
<p><strong>Appellation:</strong> Finger Lakes<br />
<strong>Grape:</strong> 50% Cabernet Franc, 50% Noiret<br />
<strong>ABV:</strong> 12%<br />
<strong>Price Point</strong>: $12<br />
<strong>Closure</strong>: Red molded synthetic cork</p>
<p><strong>Technical Notes:</strong> 9 months in French and American oak.</p>
<p><strong>Hedonic Notes:</strong> PEPPER!  You are the hot dog guy in BurgerTime and this wine is Peter Pepper.  Black pepper but also zingy white pepper are right up front on the nose.  There is an interesting floral component, too.  On the palate is a structured acidity, with some dark fruit and oak around but not so well integrated.  A bit of <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/winespeak/#astringency">{astringency}</a> on the gums.  It&#8217;s a little bit thin for me, but if it had a bit more {mouthfeel} I would <em>really</em> like it.</p>
<p><strong>Rating</strong>: <img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/cork.gif" alt="cork" title="cork" width="20" height="20" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" /><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/cork.gif" alt="cork" title="cork" width="20" height="20" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" /><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/cork.gif" alt="cork" title="cork" width="20" height="20" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" /><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/nocork.gif" alt="nocork" title="nocork" width="20" height="20" /><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/nocork.gif" alt="nocork" title="nocork" width="20" height="20" /> 3 out of 5 <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/ratings/">corks </a> for a fun, easy drinker with a spicy edge.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve already written positively about my visit to <a href="http://www.fulkersonwinery.com/">Fulkerson Winery</a> (on the west side of Seneca Lake).  Unfortunately, this particular wine is sold out at the winery, but they have just released a non-vintage Burntray, which is 66% Cabernet Sauvignon and 34% Noiret.</p>
<p><strong>Stoutridge Vineyard Cabernet Franc Noiret 2007</strong><br />
<strong>Appellation:</strong> Hudson River Region, NY<br />
<strong>Grape:</strong> 50% Cabernet Franc, 50% Noiret<br />
<strong>ABV:</strong> 12%<br />
<strong>Price Point</strong>: $28<br />
<strong>Closure</strong>: Natural cork</p>
<p><strong>Technical Notes:</strong>From <a href="http://www.stoutridge.com/winery.php">the website</a>:</p>
<blockquote><p>We are a gravity winery, meaning we never use pumps or filters in our winemaking. In addition we do minimal chemical processing to our wines. We do not &#8220;fine&#8221; our wines with gelatins, tannins or clays. We do not add water or sugar nor do we chemically adjust the acidity of our wines. We use minimal sulfites in our wines and we do not add sulfites or sorbates to wine after they are made. The wines are very nearly unprocessed and in a very natural state.</p></blockquote>
<p><strong>Hedonic Notes:</strong> At first sniff of this wine, I thought something was wrong.  I got this odd, labrusca-type smell.  While Noiret does have some labrusca parentage, the other Noiret wine certainly didn&#8217;t have a Welch&#8217;s grape juice aroma.  Then I tasted it.</p>
<div id="attachment_1264" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 235px"><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/10/img_1587-ps.jpg?w=225" alt="Bubbles mean fermenation.  Welcome in champagne, unwelcome in this wine.  I broke the screen on Sarah&#39;s camera at the Wine Festival (sat on it), so pictures are a bit hit or miss lately." title="IMG_1587-ps" width="225" height="300" class="size-medium wp-image-1264" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Bubbles mean fermenation.  Welcome in champagne, unwelcome in this wine.  I broke the screen on Sarah's camera at the Wine Festival (sat on it), so pictures are a bit hit or miss lately.</p></div>
<p>&#8230; The light effervescence on my tongue was unexpected, as was the ferocious acidity.  I looked down at the glass to see <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MXgc8wzfC4">tiny bubbles</a> around the rim, which stuck around long after I had poured.  Unlike Don Ho, though, these tiny bubbles in the wine did NOT make me happy.  This wine had undergone a re-fermentation in the bottle.  The off-the-charts acidity made me think that it had not fully completed <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/winespeak/#MLF">{malolactic fermentation}</a>.  Now, MLF can be a real bugbear for winemakers, and it&#8217;s tough to tell exactly when it&#8217;s finished without an enzymatic assay or special test strips (both quite expensive).  As the technical note states, the winery strives to use low sulfites.  In this case, any sulfiting was not enough to dispatch the malolactic bacteria.  In addition, this wine was unfiltered, so surviving malolactic bacteria probably paraded right into the bottle, where they were able to happily convert at least a little more of the malic acid into lactic acid (releasing CO2 in the process).  This was OK in my winemaking class, where we were clearly amateurs and our MLF got stuck after about three weeks, but for a commercially released wine, re-fermentation in the bottle is <strong>totally unacceptable</strong>.</p>
<p>I wish that was the only thing wrong with this wine, but it was also <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/oxidized">{oxidized}</a>.  The sharp tinge of acetaldehyde on the back of my tongue was unmistakeable.  When wines are unfiltered, winemakers generally rely on racking to clarify wine before bottling.  Racking (i.e., settling wine, then decanting it off of the sediment into another tank or barrel) exposes wine to oxygen, so additional racking steps may have led to oxidation in this wine.  After a day, the oxidation was even more pronounced and getting worse, while the Fulkerson was still very drinkable 2, 3, and 4 days after opening.</p>
<p>This could have been a bad bottle, but something tells me there is something systematic about at least one of the faults that I discovered.  This could be one of those cases where &#8220;natural&#8221; doesn&#8217;t necessarily mean &#8220;good.&#8221;  Are you listening, <a href="http://www.alicefeiring.com/">Alice Feiring</a>?</p>
<p><strong>Rating</strong>: <img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/halfcork.gif" alt="halfcork" title="halfcork" width="20" height="20" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" /><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/nocork.gif" alt="nocork" title="nocork" width="20" height="20" /><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/nocork.gif" alt="nocork" title="nocork" width="20" height="20" /><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/nocork.gif" alt="nocork" title="nocork" width="20" height="20" /><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/nocork.gif" alt="nocork" title="nocork" width="20" height="20" /> 1/2 out of 5 <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/ratings/">corks </a> for reminding me of our batch of Pinot where MLF got stuck and the wine oxidized while we waited for MLF to restart.</p>
<p>I feel bad because I investigated Stoutridge after hearing a glowing recommendation from a reader about the winery (Sorry, Matt!).  This wine apparently won a gold medal at the New York Food and Wine Classic, AND Debbie sent it to me, so maybe it was just a bad bottle.  At any rate, I would like to try more wines from the Hudson Valley, in addition to giving this one another shot.</p>
<hr />
<p><strong>Science: Grape Profile: NOIRET</strong><br />
Noiret (nwa-RAY) marks the first <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/winespeak/#hybrid">{hybrid}</a> grape I&#8217;ve had since I decided to begin <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/100-hybrids/">my quest to drink wines made from 100 different hybrid grapes</a>, and it&#8217;s a good one to start with.  It was released by Cornell University in 2006, though it had been available for test runs by growers since 1994.  It has a complex interspecific parentage, being a cross between Steuben, commonly a table grape, and the not-so-artfully-named NY65.0467.08, of which one of the parents is Chancellor.  Its lineage includes vinifera, labrusca, and ruspestris grapes.  Its major aroma characteristics seem to be black pepper and some dark fruit.  In general, when I think Noiret, I think <strong>pepper</strong>.</p>
<p>According to <a href="http://www.twitter.com/FulkersonWinery">John Iszard</a>, Fulkerson has apparently been making wine from Noiret since 2003 and they are very pleased with its performance.  I have heard through the grapevine (HA!) that <a href="http://lennthompson.typepad.com/lenndevours/2009/09/sun-exposure.html">vegetative growth</a> (i.e., favoring leaves and shoots over fruit) can be a concern with Noiret, and viticulturalists at the <a href="http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/">Geneva Experiment Station</a> are still experimenting with different rootstocks to control vine vigor.  This grape&#8217;s performance so far makes it promising, especially given the complexity that a little pepper can add to a wine.  Look for this one to appear as a blender in many wines in the future.</p>
<p>For the full details on this grape, see<a href="http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/pubs/fls/OCRPDF/fls160.pdf"> this bulletin released by Cornell.</a></p>
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		<title>Unfiltered critique</title>
		<link>http://ithacork.com/2009/09/24/damiani-pinot-noir-reserve-2007/</link>
		<comments>http://ithacork.com/2009/09/24/damiani-pinot-noir-reserve-2007/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Sep 2009 20:22:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Tom Mansell</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Tasting Notes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[$25-35]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[downstream]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[finger lakes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pinot noir]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[seneca lake]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://ithacork.wordpress.com/?p=1058</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Damiani Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Reserve 2007 Appellation: Finger Lakes Grape: Pinot Noir ABV: 13% Price Point: $32 Closure: Natural cork Technical Notes: from the website, &#8220;Our favorite 4 barrels of 2007 Pinot, this unfiltered, unfined wine is sourced all from the Davis vineyard, Dijon clone 115.&#8221; Emphasis mine. Hedonic Notes: It&#8217;s got an intense nose, oak up front, coffee/cocoa, bit of a floral component, a bit {hot}. After a little while of adapting to the aroma, there is some very interesting sort of blueberry fruit, but it flits away quickly. On the palate comes some strawberry/cherry, with tartness reminiscent of cranberry. There is a woodiness that makes me think they may have overdone it with the oak. Acid is the support structure and it is here in spades, but it lacks the body and overall {mouthfeel} to take this wine from good to great for me. Any {astringency} present seems to be oak-driven. Cherry vanilla on the interesting but short finish, and what&#8217;s this? Not to go all Gary V. on you, but do you remember Bottle Caps candy? They were like giant Smarties that came in soda flavors. Here I get some of those Cola-flavored bottle caps. Overall, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Damiani Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Reserve 2007</strong></p>
<div id="attachment_1068" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 310px"><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/damianipnreserve.jpg?w=300" alt="Enjoying some Damiani at my desk after going over the final draft of a paper I recently submitted.  Can you see any typos?" title="damianipnreserve" width="300" height="224" class="size-medium wp-image-1068" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Enjoying some Damiani at my desk after going over the final draft of a paper I recently submitted.  Can you see any typos?</p></div>
<p><strong>Appellation:</strong> Finger Lakes<br />
<strong>Grape:</strong> Pinot Noir<br />
<strong>ABV:</strong> 13%<br />
<strong>Price Point</strong>: $32<br />
<strong>Closure</strong>: Natural cork</p>
<p><strong>Technical Notes:</strong> from the <a href="http://damianiwinecellars.com/">website</a>, &#8220;Our favorite 4 barrels of 2007 Pinot, this <em>unfiltered, unfined</em> wine is sourced all from the Davis vineyard, Dijon clone 115.&#8221; Emphasis mine.</p>
<p><strong>Hedonic Notes:</strong></p>
<p>It&#8217;s got an intense nose, oak up front, coffee/cocoa, bit of a floral component, a bit<a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/winespeak/#hot"> {hot}</a>.  After a little while of adapting to the aroma, there is some very interesting sort of blueberry fruit, but it flits away quickly.  On the palate comes some strawberry/cherry, with tartness reminiscent of cranberry.  There is a woodiness that makes me think they may have overdone it with the oak.  Acid is the support structure and it is here in spades, but it lacks the body and overall <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/winespeak/#mouthfeel">{mouthfeel}</a> to take this wine from good to great for me.  Any <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/winespeak/#astringency">{astringency}</a> present seems to be oak-driven.  Cherry vanilla on the interesting but short finish, and what&#8217;s this?  Not to go all <a href="http://www.winelibrary.tv">Gary V.</a> on you, but do you remember Bottle Caps candy?  They were like giant Smarties that came in soda flavors.  Here I get some of those Cola-flavored bottle caps.</p>
<p><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/bottlecaps1.jpg?w=150" alt="bottlecaps" title="bottlecaps" width="150" height="64" class="alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-1075" /></p>
<p>Overall, the wine is pretty good and I can see the potential for it to have been great.  It just disappoints in the mid-palate, where I crave some body that I&#8217;m afraid can&#8217;t be delivered by oak alone.</p>
<p><strong>Rating</strong>: <img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/cork.gif" alt="cork" title="cork" width="20" height="20" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" /><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/cork.gif" alt="cork" title="cork" width="20" height="20" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" /><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/cork.gif" alt="cork" title="cork" width="20" height="20" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" /><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/nocork.gif" alt="nocork" title="nocork" width="20" height="20" /><img src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/nocork.gif" alt="nocork" title="nocork" width="20" height="20" /> 3 out of 5 <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/ratings/">corks </a></p>
<p><strong>Science!</strong><br />
A common story among winemakers is that when Robert Parker shows up to tour your winery, you hide the filter.  The biggest name in wine has come out strongly against filtered wines, arguing that filtering &#8220;strips the character&#8221; from wine.  It&#8217;s a controversial topic in wine (an example of a long debate about filtering and NY wine can be found <a href="http://lennthompson.typepad.com/lenndevours/2009/04/quick-qa-with-peter-bell-winemaker-fox-run-vineyards.html?cid=6a00d8341d0dbb53ef01156efbcef2970c">here</a>).  So where is the science behind this debate?  After all, you&#8217;re entitled to your own opinion, but not your own facts (a quote often attributed to the late Sen. Daniel Patrick Moynahan).</p>
<p>Filtering is often done to make wine more microbiologically stable.  By running wine through a sterile 0.45 micron filter, large things like yeast and bacteria are kept out of the wine finished product.  This not only protects against re-fermentation, but also against spoilage, particularly by <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/winespeak/#brett">{Brettanomyces}</a>.  Filtration can also speed up the time from fermentation to bottling, by collecting sediment like yeast hulls, skin bits, etc., that would settle out by gravity over longer periods of time.  I have been told (though I can&#8217;t find a source at the moment) that consumers, especially in whites, prefer clear wines (although they exist, you don&#8217;t see too many unfiltered Chardonnays on the market).</p>
<p>But is other, good stuff being stripped out by the filter?  It turns out there is very little scientific study about the sensory differences between filtered and unfiltered wines.  From a theoretical standpoint, aroma and flavor compounds are far too small to be trapped, even by a sterile 0.45-micron filter.  (For comparison with the other day&#8217;s <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/2009/09/22/reader-mail-non-alcoholic-wine/">post about reverse osmosis</a>, those filters are on the order of 0.005 microns, about 100x smaller pores).  So theoretically all the flavor and aroma compounds should flow right through the filter.  It&#8217;s possible that the idea that color and flavor are stripped out of wine by filtration has to do with the fact that filter pads generally turn purple after filtering red wine.  Sure, some of the color can get stuck to the filter pad at first, but the pads quickly become saturated, and the amount left on the filter is insignificant compared  to the amount in the wine.  Still, some winemakers swear that the wine is &#8220;stripped&#8221; by filtration.  I might buy the argument that micron- and larger-sized particles left over from fermentation might change the <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/winespeak/#mouthfeel">mouthfeel</a> of a wine, but I don&#8217;t believe, for example, that fruit aroma could disappear.  Unfortunately, until we have some sensory data, it&#8217;s difficult to gauge the sensory impact of filtration.</p>
<p>Like most things in life, though, there&#8217;s no place for absolutes here.  Not all unfiltered wines are <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/winespeak/#brett">{Brett}</a> bombs, and not all filtered wines are bereft of flavor and aroma.</p>
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		<title>Frankly, my dear, I give it a &#8220;damn good&#8221;</title>
		<link>http://ithacork.com/2009/04/06/frankly-my-dear-i-give-it-a-damn-good/</link>
		<comments>http://ithacork.com/2009/04/06/frankly-my-dear-i-give-it-a-damn-good/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Apr 2009 12:43:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Tom Mansell</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Tasting Notes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[$25-35]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2002]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[4 corks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[autolysis]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fermentation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[finger lakes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[keuka lake]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pinot meunier]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pinot noir]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sparkling wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[winemaking]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://ithacork.wordpress.com/?p=344</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Chateau Frank Blanc de Noirs 2002 Appelation: Finger Lakes Champagne (now, before you get all grumpy, let me assure you that this sparkling wine is legally allowed to be called &#8220;champagne&#8221; in the U.S., see this article for more details.) Varietal: Pinot Noir 95% Pinot Meunier 5% ABV: 11.1% (marked 12% on the bottle, but this data is from winemaker&#8217;s notes on the Dr. Frank website) RS: 1% Price Point: $30 Notes: Looks: Faint yellow with lots of bubbles Nose: Subtle fruit around. Later it gets mushroomy, earthy. What I thought of was our middle school pool. Not necessarily the chlorine smell, but the mix of locker room and warm humidity. Don&#8217;t misinterpret that, it&#8217;s a good thing, because swimming for gym class was the best gym class. Palate: Wow. Rich {mouthfeel}, very full-bodied. A little bit of yeasty, bready aroma sneaking in on the palate. Acidity balances this wine nicely, and the touch of residual sugar smooths everything out. Very balanced, full-bodied, and complex. I really, really like this wine. Rating: 4 corks Keuka Lake makes its debut on Ithacork and comes out swinging! Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars has become one of the most well-known wine producers [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Chateau Frank Blanc de Noirs 2002</strong></p>
<div id="attachment_345" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 235px"><a href="http://www.drfrankwines.com"><img class="size-medium wp-image-345" title="img_1290" src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/04/img_1290.jpg?w=225" alt="A cool spring afternoon with some bubbly. Click to visit the Dr. Frank website" width="225" height="300" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">A cool spring afternoon with some bubbly. Click to visit the Dr. Frank website</p></div>
<p><strong>Appelation:</strong> Finger Lakes Champagne (now, before you get all grumpy, let me assure you that this sparkling wine is legally allowed to be called &#8220;champagne&#8221; in the U.S., see <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Champagne_(wine)#Use_of_the_word_.22Champagne.22">this article</a> for more details.)<br />
<strong>Varietal: </strong> Pinot Noir 95% Pinot Meunier 5%<br />
<strong>ABV: </strong>11.1% (marked 12% on the bottle, but this data is from <a href="http://www.drfrankwines.com/drf2_blanc_noir.html">winemaker&#8217;s notes</a> on the Dr. Frank website)<br />
<strong>RS: </strong>1%<br />
<strong>Price Point: </strong>$30<br />
<strong>Notes:</strong><br />
<em>Looks</em>: Faint yellow with lots of bubbles<br />
<em>Nose</em>:  Subtle fruit around.  Later it gets mushroomy, earthy.  What I thought of was our middle school pool.  Not necessarily the chlorine smell, but the mix of locker room and warm humidity.  Don&#8217;t misinterpret that, it&#8217;s a good thing, because swimming for gym class was the best gym class.<br />
<em>Palate</em>: Wow.  Rich {<a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/winespeak/#mouthfeel" target="_blank">mouthfeel</a>}, very full-bodied.  A little bit of yeasty, bready aroma sneaking in on the palate.  Acidity balances this wine nicely, and the touch of residual sugar smooths everything out.  Very balanced, full-bodied, and complex.  I really, really like this wine.<br />
<strong>Rating: </strong> 4 corks <img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" title="cork" src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/cork.gif" alt="cork" width="20" height="20" /><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" title="cork" src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/cork.gif" alt="cork" width="20" height="20" /><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" title="cork" src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/cork.gif" alt="cork" width="20" height="20" /><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" title="cork" src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/cork.gif" alt="cork" width="20" height="20" /></p>
<hr />
<div id="attachment_352" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/04/0913081337a.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-352" title="0913081337a" src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/04/0913081337a.jpg?w=300" alt="Lots of bottles.  The crude cell phone pic does not begin to capture the number of bottles.  Click to enlarge" width="300" height="240" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Lots of bottles.  The crude cell phone pic does not really capture the sheer number of bottles.  Click to enlarge</p></div>
<p>Keuka Lake makes its debut on Ithacork and comes out swinging! <a href="http://www.drfrankwines.com">Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars</a> has become one of the most well-known wine producers in the Finger Lakes.  This is likely due in part to the fact that they were the first to successfully make wine with <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/winespeak/#vinifera">{vinifera}</a> grapes in the region.  Also, they are darn good at it.  In fact, when I arrived in Ithaca, one of the first names I heard in reference to wine in the Finger Lakes was Dr. Frank.  I had the opportunity to tour the winery as part of a winemaking class at Cornell.  On the tour, we were afforded a rare opportunity to see the cellars of Chateau Frank, the sparkling wine production house.  A lovely elderly (but quite spry) woman, the wife of the late Willy Frank (Dr. Konstantin&#8217;s son) gave us the cellar tour and we were able to see bottles and bottles and bottles of sparkling wine at various stages of the famous <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Champagne_method">Champagne process</a>.  You can read about it in the wikipedia link, but briefly, base wine is bottled with a dose of sugar and yeast and a secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle.  The bottles are left on the yeast for a long time, usually on the order of years before the yeast is disgorged and the champagne is bottled.  It was awesome.  If you like this wine, or you like your bubbly a little sweeter, may I suggest the Célèbre crémant, made with riesling grapes!  It is also fantastic.</p>
<p>This wine is a great example of sparkling wine in the Finger Lakes.  To make sparkling wine, winemakers usually start with base wines that are high in acid and relatively low in sugar, something that cool climates can produce without even trying.  Even though sparkling wine is labor- and equipment-intensive, many of the sparkling wines I have had from the Finger Lakes (Lamoreaux Landing is another good bet) have been excellent.  I think that sparkling wine has the potential to be huge in this region.  One last note: to many people, sparkling wine is something only drunk on special occasions, celebrations, or hungover mornings with orange juice.  I had this wine with a sub from Wegman&#8217;s, and I&#8217;ve previously been known to pair sparkling wine with Southern fried chicken.  There is lots of great sparkling wine out there, and sometimes opening a bottle is cause enough to celebrate!</p>
<p><strong>*Science!</strong><br />
Some of the rich mouthfeel that shows up in sparkling wines can be attributed to extended contact (aka <em>tirage</em>) with yeast lees (i.e., yeast cells).  Over time, yeast cells will die and undergo cell lysis, or autolysis.  Products of yeast autolysis include mannoproteins, which have been shown to increase perceived body and mouthfeel in wines (Ref: <a href="http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/journal/120128283/abstract">Alexandre and Guilloux-Benatier, &#8220;Yeast autolysis in sparkling wine &#8211; a review&#8221;, <em>Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research</em>, 2006</a>).  Basically, long periods of aging (in this case several years) will cause the dead yeast cells to break up, releasing nucleotides, enzymes, cell wall bits, and other insides into the wine. How long to age the wine on the lees and when to bottle is a winemaking decision, and according to winemaker Paul Brock (Lamoreaux), sparkling wine that is on the shelf is generally ready to drink, as all the aging has been done in the cellar.</p>
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		<title>Monday matchup:  Bold statements</title>
		<link>http://ithacork.com/2009/03/30/monday-matchup-bold-statements/</link>
		<comments>http://ithacork.com/2009/03/30/monday-matchup-bold-statements/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Mar 2009 10:14:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Tom Mansell</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Tasting Notes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[$25-35]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[$35-50]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2.5 corks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2005]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2006]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[3 corks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[matchup]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[merlot]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[perception]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[red]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[seneca lake]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sonoma valley]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tannin]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://ithacork.wordpress.com/?p=281</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I follow a lot of wine people on Twitter. This post is a response to a tweet from the winemaker at Silver Springs Winery on Seneca Lake. In addition to an eponymous label, Silver Springs also makes Don Giovanni wines, their premium label. The tweet in question was as such: DonGiovanniWine: my 2005 Bold Merlot in a blind taste test will beat all other merlots &#8230;yes I just said that&#8230; I happened to have a bottle of the 2005 Bold Merlot at home, and I was actually planning on writing tasting notes for it soon. When I saw this tweet, I couldn&#8217;t resist having the winemaker put his money where his mouth is. For the opponent, I chose another wine that I had around the house, Ty Caton 2006 Upper Bench Merlot, which I purchased from wine.woot about a year ago and have been &#8220;cellaring&#8221; in the closet. This test was done as blindly as possible, with identical ISO 9000 wine glasses. Both bottles were opened at the same time and not decanted. Wine was poured into the glasses from the bottle before the test began to avoid bias, as the bottles are shaped considerably differently. &#160; &#160; Stats: Wine [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I follow a lot of wine people on <a href="http://www.twitter.com">Twitter</a>.  This post is a response to a tweet from <a href="http://www.twitter.com/DonGiovanniWine">the winemaker at Silver Springs Winery</a> on Seneca Lake.  In addition to an eponymous label, Silver Springs also makes Don Giovanni wines, their premium label.  The tweet in question was as such:</p>
<blockquote><p>DonGiovanniWine:  my 2005 Bold Merlot in a blind taste test will beat all other merlots &#8230;yes I just said that&#8230;</p></blockquote>
<div id="attachment_285" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 194px"><img class="size-full wp-image-285" title="photo-4" src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/photo-4.jpg" alt="photo-4" width="184" height="300" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Today&#39;s competitors on &quot;Drink the Wine&quot; </p></div>
<p>I happened to have a bottle of the 2005 Bold Merlot at home, and I was actually planning on writing tasting notes for it soon.  When I saw this tweet, I couldn&#8217;t resist having the winemaker put his money where his mouth is.  For the opponent, I chose another wine that I had around the house, Ty Caton 2006 Upper Bench Merlot, which I purchased from <a href="http://wine.woot.com/Blog/ViewEntry.aspx?Id=4886">wine.woot</a> about a year ago and have been &#8220;cellaring&#8221; in the closet.</p>
<p>This test was done as blindly as possible, with identical ISO 9000 wine glasses.  Both bottles were opened at the same time and not decanted.  Wine was poured into the glasses from the bottle before the test began to avoid bias, as the bottles are shaped considerably differently.<br />
&nbsp;<br />
&nbsp;<br />
Stats:</p>
<table border="1">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><strong>Wine</strong></td>
<td><strong>Don Giovanni Bold Merlot 2005</strong></td>
<td><strong>Ty Caton 2006 Upper Bench Merlot</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>ABV</td>
<td>13.7%</td>
<td>15.7% (!!!)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Appelation</td>
<td>New York State (fruit from Long Island and Finger Lakes)</td>
<td>Sonoma Valley, CA</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Price Point</td>
<td>$27</td>
<td>$37</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Here we go:<br />
<strong>Wine 1</strong><br />
<em>Looks:</em> dark red, getting to be brick-red.<br />
<em>Nose:</em> Vanilla and oak, not too much fruit.  I do get some cherry, and a spicy potpourri aroma. There&#8217;s a bit of an herbal tint in there too, with a bit of tobacco/cigar box. It may be running a little {<a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/winespeak/#hot">hot</a>}<br />
<em>Palate:</em> Firm but not overpowering {<a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/winespeak/#tannin">tannin</a>}. Medium-short finish, and I really like the tannin structure. It&#8217;s slightly on the acidic side and oaky on the palate.  There&#8217;s something really nice that comes through on the finish about 10 seconds after swallowing/spitting.  It&#8217;s subtle and I can&#8217;t quite pinpoint it, but it is satisying.<br />
Overall, not too bad. I like its {<a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/winespeak/#balance">balance</a>}, but the phenolic (&#8220;spicy potpourri&#8221;) element is the loudest singer in the bunch, and it&#8217;s a little out of tune.<br />
<em>Rating</em>:  3 corks <img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" title="cork" src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/cork.gif" alt="cork" width="20" height="20" /><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" title="cork" src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/cork.gif" alt="cork" width="20" height="20" /><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" title="cork" src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/cork.gif" alt="cork" width="20" height="20" /></p>
<div id="attachment_287" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 313px"><img class="size-full wp-image-287" title="photo-6" src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/photo-6.jpg" alt="photo-6" width="303" height="349" /><p class="wp-caption-text">The contestants, as judged.  Post-it notes are so I wouldn&#39;t get them mixed up while tasting.</p></div>
<p><strong>Wine 2</strong><br />
<em>Looks:</em> Darker red, with hints of purple.<br />
<em>nose</em> A bit of hydrogen sulfide at first whiff (dissipated after a bit), <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/winespeak/#jammy">jammy</a>, grape soda, huckleberry pie, with a little chocolate in there.<br />
<em>palate</em> Sweet, very fruity.  Cheek-puckering tannin, almost a smokiness on the back end, a lingering bitterness that&#8217;s not really that pleasant.  Pretty alcoholic, too, finishing with some black licorice.</p>
<p>This is a big wine, but maybe not in the right ways.   At times it reminds me of a fruity-smelling magic marker.  You know the ones I mean.<br />
<em>Rating</em>:  2.5 corks <img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" title="cork" src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/cork.gif" alt="cork" width="20" height="20" /><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-54" title="cork" src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/cork.gif" alt="cork" width="20" height="20" /><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-55" title="halfcork" src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/halfcork.gif" alt="halfcork" width="20" height="20" /></p>
<p><strong>Results:</strong> Don Giovanni was wine 1, and Ty Caton was wine 2.  In a way, this probably wasn&#8217;t a fair comparison.  These wines are completely different styles, and since this wasn&#8217;t DOUBLE blind (i.e. I would have no idea which wines I was tasting at all), I had my suspicions about which wine was which right from the get-go.  The DG had an aroma that I pick up in many, many FL reds, which I describe as &#8220;potpourri&#8221; only because I&#8217;m not really sure what to call it.  My hypothesis is that it comes from extended maceration and/or long extraction periods, which can add a lot of color to a wine from a wet vintage, but also extract some undesirables from the skins.  I&#8217;ll keep you posted.   Meanwhile, the TC can come off like a typical California WAY overripe, jammy, syrupy, alcoholic mess.  15.7% alcohol?  It may as well be madeira!  This may be a style that <a href="http://lennthompson.typepad.com/lenndevours/2009/03/are-napa-winemakers-robert-parkers-bitches.html">some critics really go for</a>, but for me, I prefer the Don Giovanni.  That being said, it&#8217;s not without its flaws, and I definitely wouldn&#8217;t say that it could beat ANY merlot out there.</p>
<hr />
<p>A note about blind tastings:  It&#8217;s important to point out that nobody buys wine blind.  Nobody goes to the store and says to the clerk, &#8220;I&#8217;ve got $20, surprise me!&#8221; (though I might do that someday, sounds like fun).  With so many wines out there (on the order of 10,000 labels authorized for sale in the US in 2007), there&#8217;s no way one can try them all and buy based on experience.  The more adventurous consumers will reach for varietals and regions they haven&#8217;t had before, but it seems that in general, people buy wine based on lots of psychological factors that have little to do with the quality of the wine in question.  This could explain why the results of truly blind tastings can often be rather surprising, especially to the tasters.  However, human psychology is rather out of my jurisdiction and I&#8217;m content to just say that people do weird things sometimes.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve been to <a href="http://www.silverspringswinery.com/">Silver Springs</a> a few times and whenever I go, the winemaker, John Zuccarino, is pouring behind the bar.  The guy is nothing if not extremely enthusiastic about wine and the wines that he makes.  Many times my friends have remarked that it was their favorite stop along the way on Seneca, even if the winemaker&#8217;s presence is a bit overwhelming for some.  He makes some pretty good reds, and I highly recommend stopping by there if you&#8217;re traveling up the east side of Seneca.</p>
<div id="attachment_301" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 167px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-301" title="photo-8" src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/photo-8.jpg?w=157" alt="photo-8" width="157" height="300" /><p class="wp-caption-text">This is only a small portion of the detritus floating in my spit cup after tasting these two wines.</p></div>
<p><strong>Science!</strong><br />
Hey gang!  Here&#8217;s an experiment that you can do at home!  Make sure you get your parents&#8217; permission, though.  In the <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/winespeak">winespeak dictionary</a>, I explain how it&#8217;s thought that the mechanism of <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/#astringency">astringency</a> is the precipitation of proteins in saliva by tannins.  Additionally, perception of astringency correlates well with protein precipitation assays (Ref: <a href="http://ajevonline.org/cgi/content/abstract/57/4/481">Kennedy <em>et al.,</em>, &#8220;Analysis of Tannins in Red Wine Using Multiple Methods: Correlation with Perceived Astringency &#8220;, <em>AJEV</em>, 2006</a>) Well, if you&#8217;ve got a spit bucket, you can observe this phenomenon for yourself!  All that chunky stuff floating around when you spit out a red wine is precipitated protein, mostly PRPs (proline-rich proteins).  It&#8217;s thought that PRPs evolved as a defense mechanism against polyphenolic compounds, like <a href="http://ithacork.wordpress.com/winespeak/#tannin">tannins</a> (Ref: <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/9154941">Baxter <em>et al.</em>, &#8220;Multiple interactions between polyphenols and a salivary proline-rich protein repeat result in complexation and precipitation.&#8221;, <em>Biochemistry</em>, 1997</a>).</p>
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		<title>Craic one open</title>
		<link>http://ithacork.com/2009/03/17/craic-one-open/</link>
		<comments>http://ithacork.com/2009/03/17/craic-one-open/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 17 Mar 2009 23:20:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Tom Mansell</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Tasting Notes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[$25-35]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[irish whiskey]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[perception]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[spirits]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[whiskey]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://ithacork.wordpress.com/?p=191</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Jameson Irish Whiskey ABV: 40% Malt: Blended Price Point $28 for 750 mL Happy St. Patrick&#8217;s Day! I figured as a little sidebar on this day, I&#8217;d taste some whiskey. Yes, I know Jameson is on the low end of the Irish whiskey spectrum and mass-marketed, but, like its beer counterpart Guinness, it has a virtual cultural monopoly on St. Patty&#8217;s day liquor. There are typically three ways to enjoy whiskey on its own. Neat: that is, right out of the bottle, room temperature nothing else added whatsoever With water: add some water, ratio to taste (usually 50/50) On the rocks: with ice. Folks are usually pretty vocal about which way is best, so I&#8217;ll go for all three. Disclaimer: For all the wine I drink, I am a whiskey novice. I&#8217;m tasting this like I would taste wine. NEAT Looks: Interesting orange/amber color, a little orange protestant representation on a very green day Nose: No surprise here: it&#8217;s got high alcohol and it burns the nose*. Over the noise I get some toast (like toasted wood, not bread toast), vanilla, caramel, and a little mediciney (clove?) thing. palate: Well, it burns your tongue too. Orange peel on a long [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_194" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 187px"><a href="http://www.jamesonwhiskey.com/" target="_blank"><img class="size-medium wp-image-194" title="55111805" src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/55111805.jpg?w=177" alt="55111805" width="177" height="300" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Click to go the distillery website</p></div>
<p><strong>Jameson Irish Whiskey</strong><br />
<strong>ABV:</strong> 40%<br />
<strong>Malt:</strong> Blended<br />
<strong>Price Point</strong> $28 for 750 mL<br />
Happy St. Patrick&#8217;s Day!  I figured as a little sidebar on this day, I&#8217;d taste some whiskey.  Yes, I know Jameson is on the low end of the Irish whiskey spectrum and mass-marketed, but, like its beer counterpart Guinness, it has a virtual cultural monopoly on St. Patty&#8217;s day liquor.</p>
<p>There are typically three ways to enjoy whiskey on its own.</p>
<ul>
<li>Neat: that is, right out of the bottle, room temperature nothing else added whatsoever</li>
<li>With water:  add some water, ratio to taste (usually 50/50)</li>
<li>On the rocks:  with ice.</li>
</ul>
<p>Folks are usually pretty vocal about which way is best, so I&#8217;ll go for all three.<br />
Disclaimer:  For all the wine I drink, I am a whiskey novice.  I&#8217;m tasting this like I would taste wine.</p>
<p><em>NEAT</em><br />
<em>Looks:</em> Interesting orange/amber color, a little orange protestant representation on a very green day<br />
<em>Nose:</em> No surprise here: it&#8217;s got high alcohol and it burns the nose*.  Over the noise I get some toast (like toasted wood, not bread toast), vanilla, caramel, and a little mediciney (clove?) thing.<br />
<em>palate:</em> Well, it burns your tongue too.  Orange peel on a long finish that doesn&#8217;t burn the throat</p>
<p><em>WITH WATER</em><br />
The water brings out plastic/medicine on the nose and practically eliminates the burning.  In the mouth it rounds out the mouthfeel, adding some orange/vanilla creamsicle type stuff.  It&#8217;s still quite oaky, which makes sense since it spends a good amount of time (way longer than wine) in oak barrels.</p>
<p><em>ON THE ROCKS</em><br />
Probably my favorite.  Diminished alcohol burn on the nose, allowing more pleasant aromas to come through, nice mouthfeel as I roll it around the tongue.</p>
<hr />
<p>Irish whiskey lacks the smoky flavors of Scotch because smoking the grain/malt over peat fires is absent from the Irish process.  Personally, I can do without the smoky flavors.</p>
<p>At the risk of getting in trouble from whiskey purists, let me offer a cocktail recipe.  The only other beverage handy was green tea, and well, since it&#8217;s a green kind of day, I figured I&#8217;d go for it.</p>
<div class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 160px"><img src="http://jakepatrick.files.wordpress.com/2008/05/diet-green-tea.jpg?w=203&amp;h=300" alt="Its 3 bucks a gallon!" width="150" height="225" /><p class="wp-caption-text">It&#39;s 3 bucks a gallon!</p></div>
<p><strong>Wearin&#8217; O&#8217; the Green Tea:</strong><br />
1 part Jameson Irish Whiskey<br />
3 parts Arizona Diet Green Tea with ginseng</p>
<p>Mix to taste and enjoy straight up or on the rocks.</p>
<p>The green tea&#8217;s got orange honey in it, and believe it or not, it really complements the whiskey.  It&#8217;s kind of like a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hot_toddy">hot toddy</a>, but unless you are a grandma, you probably don&#8217;t drink those.</p>
<p>On a hedonic note, I enjoyed this with a hot corned beef sandwich with sauerkraut on a pumpernickel bagel.  It&#8217;s the closest I&#8217;ll get to corned beef and cabbage today, probably.  Anyway, blasting some Cheiftains, Pogues, and Flogging Molly, chowing down on some corned beef and sipping Jameson.   Pretty good St. Patty&#8217;s day, don&#8217;t you think?</p>
<p>So if you&#8217;re at the local pub tonight and buying some Jameson (or other Irish whiskey), don&#8217;t just shoot it back like a heathen, give it a sip and enjoy the fruity, toasty flavors of the old Mountain Dew.  Sláinte!</p>
<p><strong>Science!</strong></p>
<div id="attachment_201" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 210px"><img class="size-full wp-image-201" title="41p1yag5oil_sl500_aa280_" src="http://ithacork.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/41p1yag5oil_sl500_aa280_.jpg" alt="Feel the burn!" width="200" height="200" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Feel the burn!</p></div>
<p>Pure ethanol (alcohol) does have a &#8220;sweet&#8221; aroma, (Ref:  <a href="http://ajevonline.org/cgi/content/abstract/48/3/271">Thorngate, &#8220;The physiology of human sensory response to wine: A review&#8221;, <em>AJEV</em>, 1997</a>) but when it&#8217;s introduced into the nose, something else happens.  The mechanism is not entirely understood, but interaction of ethanol with certain receptors triggers a response by the trigeminal nerve in the nose and mouth, which causes a &#8220;burning&#8221; sensation.  Anyone who&#8217;s poured Scope down his pants that one time at scout camp knows that alcohol creates quite a burning sensation on the skin  (I mean, hypothetically).  Turns out these receptors also process <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capsaicin">capsaicin</a>, the &#8220;hot&#8221; compound in hot peppers.  (Ref: <a href="http://www.nature.com/neuro/journal/v5/n6/full/nn852.html">Trevisani <em>et al.</em>, &#8220;Ethanol elicits and potentiates nociceptor responses via the vanilloid receptor-1&#8243;, <em>Nature Neuroscience</em>, 2002</a>).  This burning increases with increased ethanol concentration, and by <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry%27s_law">Henry&#8217;s law</a>, the more ethanol in the liquid, the more will be in the gas phase.  The amount in the vapor phase will also be affected by temperature, thus my preference for rocks, and the reason you&#8217;d never want a room temperature martini.</p>
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